Once our knives have been made up for the new design, the manufacturing process starts with our clickers who know exactly where on the skin to place the knife to produce minimal waste as they cut the upper on the clicking press.
In the closing room, we mark, skive, glue and stitch the upper together. The toe puffs and heel stiffeners are attached and moulded, and the buckles, hooks, loops or eyelets fitted. The closed upper is now ready to go to the making room for lasting.
The uppers are then pulled over the last and cemented to the insole. This is a very delicate operation, requiring great care and attention so that the leather fits snugly over the last but does not stretch to tearing point.
After stitching the upper to the midsole and runner, we heat set the lasted shoe at 130°c to shrink the upper around the last and give it stand. We then move to the sole room, where the sole and runner are primed, allowing them to cure before bonding them together using a two-part glue, heat and pressure. The excess rubber is now trimmed off and the edges sanded to a fine finish
The completed shoe then goes to the shoe room for edge staining, polishing and a thorough quality control inspection, before being boxed and labelled.
